D37-D46 A windstorm, blisters, and moonshine 風暴、水泡、私酒

Day 37:

Yesterday I finally met some Taiwanese people doing the trail! Metronome and Aurora caught up to me in Tehachapi and were staying at the same hotel. Metronome is an experienced long-distance hiker but for Aurora, like me, it's her first long-distance trip. 

我昨天終於遇到走PCT的台灣人，Metronome（節拍器）和Aurora（極光）趕上我，在Tehachapi剛好住同一家旅館。Metronome已經走過長距離步道但Aurora跟我一樣只走過中央山脈的幾段，都一個禮拜以內的行程而已。

Today I finally got out of Tehachapi after 3 days in the town. After going up and over several mountain passes, the Mojave Desert is now out of sight behind me and it’s all mountains ahead. Still, there are wind turbines. 

在這個小鎮待了滿滿三天才之關於回步道。過了幾個鞍部後看不到平地沙漠了，前面只有山。跟前兩天一樣這裡也是有風力發電機。

I only had half a day to hike so I just did 21 miles today. The goal is to do 30-mile days from here to Kennedy Meadows, where I will be able to take a nice long zero day. 

今天只走半天所以進度只有33公里。在這一段我的目標是每天走接近50公里，越早到Kennedy Meadows可以休息越久。

Day 38:

I woke up late and started walking at 8am, which would make it very difficult to do 30 miles before dark. New blisters were also forming thanks to the hiker box used shoes I picked up in Tehachapi. This is very frustrating as they felt fine in town, and I have already sent my other shoes a month ahead on trail. Also, none of my other shoes gave me blisters like this. This slowed me down even more and left me in a bad mood, even when I passed the 600-mile mark. 

今天睡太晚了，8點才開始走，這樣會很難走50公里。更慘的是我剛在Tehachapi撿到的二手鞋子開始讓我的腳起水泡，在市區走走都沒事，前37天穿過的其他鞋子也沒有讓我起這麼嚴重的水泡。因此今天的心情不太好，過600英里里程碑的時侯也沒有讓我開心。

Thankfully I was able to make it far enough to see the Sierra Nevada mountains. This will be the most scenic section of the whole trail and I will be there in about 4 days. It's what everyone has been anticipating since Day 1 and getting to see it today was a great morale boost. 

不過今天有一件讓我開心的事，走狗遠的話有機會看到內華達山脈，大概四天後就會到達。那一段是PCT最美的部分，也是大家從第一天一直到現在很期待看到的地方，如果今天就看得到這個山脈，就算在遠處還心情一定會好一些。

As I climbed up toward the pass, the mountaintop was covered in vivid colours thanks to the flowers. 

接近鞍部的路都批滿了菜色花朵。

Finally the view to the north opened up and I could see the Sierras. It was a nice ending to a rough day. 

過鞍部後往北看終於看到遠方的幾座頂部有雪的山，艱苦的一天過了我就鬆了一口氣。

Day 39:

I woke up early on my own today and even got to catch a sunrise with the Sierras just visible on the horizon.

今天很早自然醒，看到日出也再次看到地平線那裡的內華達山脈。

The trail today was all very, very dry. In 8 miles, you could walk a half-hour off trail to get to a natural source, but that's pretty far out of the way. After that it was still another 24 miles before a natural water source, a total of 32 dry trail miles. Thankfully for us there are two water caches maintained by locals for the PCT and the latest information said they were well stocked. Indeed, we were able to get lots of water here, but it was a bit tricky to pour because it was extremely windy.

今天的步道幾乎沒有自然水源，是非常乾的一段路，13公里後有一個岔路，走下去半小時有水源但這樣來回就浪費一個小時，沒有在那裡取水要再走39公里才有自然水源，總共52公里沿途都無水源的路段。幸好在中途兩個地方當地的trail angels有藏水，而且我們最新的消息是兩處都還剩很多水。到了我們發現的確水多，但因為風很大所以很難倒。

In fact, the whole day was ridiculously windy. I have never walked in wind that strong for that long before. The winds must have been going at 60 or 70 km/h all day and there was just no shelter from it.

其實風一整天都非常大，我沒有在這麼大的風中走過這麼遠，風速應該不低於六七十且一路都沒地方躲風。

This made for miserable walking, as you had to push harder into the wind, your hat would get blown around or block your eyesight, and sometimes sand got thrown at you. Still, the views today down to the desert floor below were some of the best yet, and I passed the 1000-kilometer point on the trail!

走起來很困難，要用身體往前推，帽子會亂飄或擋視線，甚至有時候風會把沙子吹到我身上。不過今天的風景也很美，今天我也過了一千公里的里程碑。

The day was made worse by the pain in both feet I felt with every single step. These new shoes were horrible and I still had 3 days left before I would be anywhere near a store where I could replace them. Finally I gave up, took off the shoes, and put my Crocs on to hike in. The Crocs didn't touch the blisters and I felt instantly better.

讓今天更辛苦的是我鞋子造成的水泡，沒一步都會痛，而且要再走三天才可以到有機會買別的鞋子的地方，想到未來三天的痛就很不開心。我最後放棄了，脫掉鞋子，換了我的塑膠鞋再繼續走。塑膠鞋沒有磨到水泡，走起來竟然很舒服！

The wind motivated me to keep moving, because there was nowhere nice to stop and have a break out of the sun and the wind, so I ended up having my biggest day yet, 32 miles. There was an old cabin at the end of this and I knew if I could just make it there, maybe I would have shelter from the wind for the night.

因為風很大且沒地方休息躲太陽和風所以我就不停地走，走到晚上已經破了個人的紀錄，總共走了52公里。在52公里處我知道有一間小木屋是今天讓我走那麼遠的動力，只要能到達小木屋就有機會躲風，晚上會比較好睡。

When I got there it turned out there was only one other person camped inside, so there was still room for me AND it blocked all the wind!

到達的時侯我發現裡面只有一位登山客，還有位子讓我睡而且裡面真的吹不到風耶！

There were even lenticular clouds in the sky tonight thanks to all the wind.

今天的風還造成莢狀雲，很漂亮。

The only bad part was that we heard there was a rat living there so we had to hang our packs in the air. Indeed we both woke up to find the rat watching us in the middle of the night.

小木屋唯一的壞處是我們聽說有一隻老鼠，所以我們的背包要懸掛。半夜我們兩個同時醒來的時候發現的確有老鼠，牠在地板上跑來跑去，偶爾會看我們一眼。

This was maybe the hardest day yet thanks to the horrible windy conditions, but at least it ended well.

今天可能是最辛苦的一天，但因為塑膠鞋跟小木屋的存在最後沒那麼難受。

Day 40:

I continued hiking in Crocs and loving it today. I'm considering doing the rest of the trail in Crocs, after the snow sections, because they are just so comfortable. The wind was much much lighter today than yesterday, so I was able to take time to stop and enjoy the view from up high.

我今天繼續穿著塑膠鞋走，腳一直感到舒服，或許內華達山脈有積雪的路段過後我可以繼續穿這種鞋走完整個PCT，穿起來就是這麼舒服。今天的風比昨天小很多，所以比較有機會停下來看看風景。

When I got to the only paved road we cross this whole week, I was delighted to see someone there doing trail magic! In fact, it was the same guy who had sold us hot dogs a couple weeks earlier on the trail, now moved up here. I had a cold drink and a turkey sandwich! 

到了這一段唯一要過的柏油公路時我發現有人在那裡進行trail magic，走過去看發現是300多公里前賣我們熱狗堡的那一位，他只是換了地方繼續做magic。我今天吃到火雞肉三明治，喝到冰的汽水。

Even better, there was a hiker box here and there was a pair of shoes in my size, the same brand I wanted to buy in a few days to replace the shoes from hell I was currently carrying. I tried them on and they were as comfortable as a pair of slippers.

旁邊有個hiker box，裡面只有兩雙鞋子可是其中一雙剛好是我 穿的尺寸，也剛好是我幾天後打算買的牌子來替換我現在揹的爛鞋子。我把這雙hiker box的二手鞋子穿上，竟然很舒服，尺寸剛剛好，觸感軟軟的，也不會磨到水泡，之後就穿著這一雙走吧！

The Crocs were great but they are very soft and might wear out fast. These new shoes would last longer and would get less sand in them as I walked. What a lucky day! On top of that, I passed another important milestone: one quarter of the trail is now done.

我的塑膠鞋很舒服，但底部很軟所以我怕很快就磨損，這雙越野跑鞋會比較耐磨也不會那麼容易進沙子，能撿到這雙算很幸運。今天還有另一件讓我很開心的事，我過了PCT四分之一的里程碑。

I ran out of daylight today and didn't make 30 miles. Also my left hamstring is suddenly hurting a lot and I don't know why. I massaged it and hope that a good night's sleep is all it needs. If it still hurts in the morning there's no way I can do 30 miles tomorrow.

今天走到天黑時還沒到50公里，左邊的膕旁肌也無緣無故地開始痛。我幫大腿按摩，希望睡了個好覺就會好，如果早上還會痛明天就肯定不能走50公里。

Because it was almost dark when I reached a campsite and I want to start early tomorrow, I decided to cowboy camp, finally. There are no bugs here or wind, so it seems like a good time to try it.

我走到營地的時侯已經快天黑了，明天又要早起，所以我決定要試著不搭帳篷睡。這裡沒有風也沒有蚊子，好像很適合這種睡法。

Some people do this every night but I like my tent. We'll see how it goes tonight.

很多人每天都這樣睡但我很捨不得我的帳篷，今天先看看這樣能不能睡好。

Day 41:

Cowboy camping was fine. I barely noticed any difference, except I woke up earlier because brightening sky was brighter with no tent in the way. I got an early start so I thought I would get to the next town stop tonight if I could hammer out my biggest day yet, 33.5 miles. The new shoes were feeling great but there were two very long uphill sections and by 24 miles I was feeling very tired and the feet didn't want to do another 9 miles. Even a nice long downhill felt like too much for the feet.

其實這樣睡跟在帳篷內睡差不多，唯一的差別是我比較早醒來，沒有帳篷擋住晨光就會早一點自然醒。若今天可以走55公里就可以今天到下一個小鎮，我本來以為這麼早開始走有機會走這麼遠，不過今天有兩段上坡比較累，還沒到40公里的時侯我就不想走了，腳也很疲勞好像不能接受再走15公里，甚至下坡時也感到累。

One of the other hikers mentioned that he was going to stop at the river for a swim and camp there, then go into town in the morning. This sounded like an awesome plan so I changed my mind.

我遇到的一個男生跟我說他要到前面的溪流泡水然後在溪邊紮營，隔天早上在進鎮。我聽到這個計畫就馬上放棄我原本要走55公里的想法，跟著他們三個人到溪邊。

I was the dirtiest I've ever been in this section, though I'm not sure why.

不知道為什麼這一段是我腳變最髒的一段。

The river was the most water I'd seen flowing since the hot springs about 3 weeks ago and felt incredibly good to soak in after 130 miles in the desert.

上次看到跟這條溪一樣的水量已經是三個禮拜前的事，而且200多公里沒洗澡，下去泡溪水感覺自己到了天堂。

After getting all cleaned off in the river, I set up camp and enjoyed a leisurely evening chatting with the others and eating my supper in the last of the daylight. This was a great end to a very tiring day, despite not reaching my distance goal.

洗乾淨搭完帳篷後我就可以放鬆了，慢慢煮晚餐跟其他登山客聊天，享受今天最後的陽光。雖然走得很累也沒走到55公里，但是今天有這樣的結尾我就很滿意了。我發現在步道上很常有這樣的情況，壞事發生後很快就有好事，好事發生後很快就有壞事，只要自己能夠特別注意好事並忘掉壞事，其實很容易感到滿足。

Day 42:

This morning I walked into Kennedy Meadows. 

今天早上終於到達Kennedy Meadows 了。

This is the biggest milestone yet as it marks the end of the desert section of the trail. It’s what everyone has in mind when they first start the trail: if I can just make it to Kennedy Meadows, everything else will be OK.

這是目前最重要的里程碑，走到這裡代表PCT沙漠段結束了，也是大家從第一天一直想到的目標，只要能走到Kennedy Meadows，之後就不會有事了。

The first stop here for everyone is the General Store:

第一站是這間老店 General Store：

There is a tradition here to applaud every hiker that walks up to the General Store from the trail, and I was indeed applauded this morning. The applause is for making it through 6 weeks of challenges and not giving up, and it is nice to hear upon walking in from fellow hikers who have just reached the same milestone.

這裡有個傳統，每次有人從步道走出來，在這間店休息的其他登山客會為他拍手，我今天也不例外。要拍手是因為登山客面對沙漠的挑戰沒有放棄，連續六個禮拜堅持一直往前走。看到這些經歷跟我一樣最了解沙漠段的痛苦的人為我拍手替我開心讓我大笑，之後我也很樂意為後面來的人拍手。

The store has many services for hikers including massive hiker boxes with just about everything imaginable in them and a huge pile of abandoned but still maybe roadworthy shoes.

這間店有提供很多登山客需要的東西和服務，hiker box塞滿了各式各樣的東西，也有一堆丟棄但或許還能穿的鞋子。

I saw many familiar faces here, including the Taiwanese woman I'd met, Aurora. We went to the other restaurant in town and had pizza.

在這裡我遇到好多熟悉的人。我最近認識的台灣女生Aurora也在這裡，我們決定一起去另外一家餐廳吃披薩。

It had been 5 days with no phone service so we were also desperate to use the WiFi there as this settlement still had no cell reception. Back at the general store, I checked my receipts from Taiwan to see if I'd won anything in the receipt lottery. I only won about 8 dollars on one receipt, not worth trying to claim from over here. However, Metronome from Taiwan had arrived at the store by them so I gave it to him as he is going to be in Taiwan again soon before it expires. 

五天沒有手機訊號，這個小鎮也沒有，所以我們也在這裡連上WiFi狂上網。回到General Store後我拿出台灣3月-4月的發票來對，我離開台灣的時侯還沒抽中獎號碼所以只好等到6月再對。我中獎了！不過只有兩百塊所以我拿給Metronome，他下個月要回台灣所以就讓他拿去領將吧！反正我十一月回台灣的時侯已經來不及領。

The most important thing I did at Kennedy Meadows was collect the packages I sent to myself and prepare my bear canister. I had to pack 6 days of food in here and of course it didn't all fit. With the potatoes I had mailed and the leftover from last week, I just had way too much!

在Kennedy Meadows最重要的任務是領包裹並準備熊罐的食物。熊罐裡要塞六天份的食物，可是塞滿後還剩很多，上禮拜沒吃完的東西加上我寄給自己的馬鈴薯都太多了。

In the evening, the General Store put on an excellent steak dinner, and there was a bonfire that night that got pretty loud and rowdy thanks to moonshine one of the hikers shared with everyone.

那天General Store的附設餐廳有提供牛排晚餐，我是訂單上的第一位！晚上在店旁邊有營火，有人還帶了他自己釀的烈酒分給大家所以到半夜我們都很吵。

Day 43:

The following day was a zero day. I went to the nearby Grumpy’s Resort and had another huge pancake breakfast, that is to say a breakfast with huge pancakes. 

隔天是zero進度零的一天，早餐又去另一家餐廳吃，他們的鬆餅又是超級大的，很適合胃口大的登山客。

I also mailed ahead some food and gear that I didn’t want to carry (almost 3 pounds’ worth!), and got laundry done. I would have to carry the bear canister starting here, so it was important to get rid of extra weight where I could. I had to say goodbye to my umbrella, faithful companion and shade-giver through most of the desert.

我下午洗了衣服然後寄出一些暫時不需要的裝備和食物，總共減掉一公斤半。從這裡開始我要揹熊罐所以其他方面能減重就減，今天跟陪我走整個沙漠的傘告別。

Day 44:

I was planning to leave in the morning today, but my phone started acting up. It was getting really hot and wouldn’t charge very well. After three hours of charging, it had only gone up by 10%. I was going to be in the mountains for 16 days, so I really needed that phone to be fully charged. Eventually, it was 4 p.m. so I just gave up, hoping I could find some way to charge it later on the trail. I headed out through the last desert-like section of trail, where the flowers were blooming.

今天本來要早上就出發，可是手機出問題，很難充電而且充電的時侯會變熱，充了三小時只增了10％的電量。之後要走十六天才可以再充電所以現在很需要先幫手機充飽。下午四點的時侯手機還沒好，我想算了先走，之後在步道上再想辦法。走出去一開始還是沙漠的感覺，花都開了，隔天會開始認真上坡。

Day 45:

This morning the landscape changed dramatically. I encountered my first alpine meadow, with rocky snow-capped peaks in the background.

今天的風景變化很大，我看到第一個高山草地，背景是有積雪的花崗岩山頭。

I passed by the Kern River again, a great place to get water and relax on the sand for a few minutes. It was also full of swallows here nesting under the bridge, and if you look closely, a bird of prey diving near the bridge trying to catch one of them.

我經過跟前幾天一樣的溪流，在橋下的沙子上休息取水很舒服。橋下也有很多小鳥的鳥巢，仔細看照片也會發現一隻鷙鳥正要下去抓小鳥。

As I kept ascending, the landscape changed into a pure pine forest, with nothing but sand on the forest floor. It was odd to suddenly see only one species of plant growing all around.

再往上爬風景又變了，現在地板只有沙子，唯一長出來的植物是松樹。

The campsite I stayed at that night was near a very small water source. This was the hardest one I’ve had to collect from yet, but at least the water was clear. Someone else in the campsite had a piece of plastic bottle he was letting everyone use that made scooping up the water easier.

今天的營地附近有一個很小的水源，很難從這麼淺的水源取水但水還是很乾淨。營地有個人帶了一塊從塑膠瓶剪下來的塑膠，他願意借給我們用來撈水。

To my surprise, I saw a familiar face in camp tonight. Scout was here! Scout was the trail angel whose house I stayed at before starting the trail in San Diego. He was doing a small section of the PCT this year now that his hosting was finished. Frodo, his wife, was still recovering from a leg problem and couldn’t make it out.

今天也很意外地在營地看到一個熟悉的人，竟然是Scout！我在聖地牙哥住的trail angel家就是Scout的家。他今年要走PCT的一小段，老婆因為腳受傷還沒好所以不能跟。

Day 46:

Although I was finally out of the desert, it still wasn’t far away. At sunrise this morning near camp, there was a great view of the desert plains below, and I got a sense of how high I had climbed.

雖然已經離開了沙漠但沒有離開很遠，今早看日出時看到了下面的平地沙漠，看得出來這幾天爬坡爬得多高。

The path climbed higher and higher throughout the day and finally arrived at the first of many, many, many alpine lakes to come: Chicken Spring Lake. This is the first swimmable lake on the PCT and signifies the true beginning of the high Sierras. It was a very popular place to camp that night.

今天爬得越來越高一直到第一個高山湖泊，接下來會有非常多類似的湖。這是PCT第一個能下去游泳的湖泊，也是代表我們正式走入內華達山脈的重要地標。

Goodbye, desert!

沙漠段再見！