Sunday, August 26, 2018

D108-D111: Goodbye, smoke! 煙再見!


Days 108 to 111:

Leaving Mazama Village, I hiked uphill to Crater Lake proper. This area used to be an active volcano but after a massive eruption 7700 years ago, all that was left was a big volcanic crater. This eventually filled in with water and is now the deepest lake in the United States. Normally it is very scenic, with clear blue water and the impressive round shape of the lake visible from anywhere along the rim. It is supposed to look something like this:

離開火山口湖公園的觀光村莊後我往上拍到火山口湖本身。這一帶本來是一個巨大活火山,但因為7700年前發生爆發目前在山頂只留下一個火山口,經過幾萬年的雨雪累積後,現存的火山口湖目前是美國最深的湖泊。平常湖水的顏色是很漂亮的水晶藍色,在邊緣的任何地方都看得到湖泊形成的圓形,大概是這個樣子:


Photos via Good Free Photos

Unfortunately, with all the smoke in the air, I didn’t get to see the lake well. This is somewhere I would like to come back and visit another time, as today it looked like this:

可惜從森林火災吹過來的煙今天特別濃,幾乎看不到湖,可能要再找機會回來看看這個景點,今天看到的讓我很失望:

The good news is the walking was very, very easy after Crater Lake as the land was very flat.

過了火山口湖之後地很平,步道走起來非常輕鬆。

The next morning I woke up to very cold weather and fog. It wasn’t looking good but the sun started burning off the fog and soon enough the weather was perfect! The smoke was all gone now and I could now see far ahead to the north, where the Sisters volcanoes were in view, as well as the first snow since leaving the Sierras.

隔天早上起來的時候天氣很冷而且有霧,不過太陽很快就穿過霧,後來天氣變得超好的。煙都被吹走了,往北看今天看得到姐妹火山群,山頂上有自從離開內華達山脈之後我第一次看到的雪。



It’s too bad I wasn’t at Crater Lake today to see that perfect blue water, but I was still happy to be on the trail on a day like this. Beside the trail, there was a peak called Mt. Thielsen, and I happened to come across a hiker just coming down from there. He said the view up top was excellent, and I decided I had to leave the PCT for an hour or two and check this out.

可惜我不是今天才拜訪火山口湖,今天湖水一定會顯得很藍,不過能在這樣的天氣下繼續走PCT我也是很開心。PCT旁邊有一個通往Thielsen山的支線。我經過岔路的時候剛好有一個登山客從支線下來,他說上面的展望超級棒,我就這樣馬上決定暫時離開PCT上去看看。
This turned out to be a very worthwhile side trip. I got excellent views all around, including a view of the entire broken rim of Crater Lake (first picture, on the horizon). 

我沒有後悔走支線,景色真的很值得花一點時間去看。這附近沒有比Thielsen山高的山頭,東西南北展望都很好,往南看我還看得到整個火山口湖邊緣的稜線,是第一張照片中在地平線上凹凹凸凸的稜線。




It got really steep and the rocks were very loose near the top, so much so that I had to abandon the peak and turn around. Still, I was high enough to get a really nice view and I didn’t regret going up.

越接近山頂山坡越陡,碎石地板越鬆,我甚至決定再前進太危險了而在還沒登頂前就放棄了。就算沒有登頂我還是覺得走到這麼高的地方很值得。
The last few nights have suddenly gotten colder and the tent is now getting a lot of condensation on and in it. I can feel summer starting to leave. The best thing to do when your gear is wet on a hike is to lay it out in the sun during a snack or lunch break. Typically, it only takes a few minutes for a tent or damp sleeping bag to dry out entirely.

這幾個晚上溫頓突然比以前低一些,每天早上帳篷外帳內外都濕了,看來要準備與夏天告別了。裝備濕了最好白天要趁休息時間把裝備擺放出來曬,通常睡袋活帳篷曬了幾分鐘而已就曬得很乾。
There were a couple key landmarks today. One was the highest point on the trail for the Oregon and Washington portion of the PCT. From here to the Canadian border, I will never climb higher again. Also, I’ve somehow managed to walk 3000 km!

今天有兩個重要的里程碑。第一個是奧勒岡州與華盛頓州路段的最高點,這裡過後一直到加拿大再也不會爬這麼高了。 第二,我不知不覺已經走完三千公里了!

More good news came when I got to camp that night. There was a big water cache here and a trail register. I looked inside at the names and found that several of the people I knew from the beginning of my PCT hike, before I left to Canada for the wedding, were now only 2 to 4 days ahead of me. I lost about 10 days initially but I was catching up fast.

今天走到營地的時候又有好消息,這個營地有trail angel儲水,還有一個登山客記錄本,經過的人都會在裡面簽名留言。我翻開看最近有誰經過這裡發現很多在南加州認識的山友的簽名,也就是我暫時離開不到去加拿大參加婚禮前最熟的人,他們竟然在我前面2至4天而已,我本來慢他們10天可是越來越接近,再過一陣子或許可以趕上他們。
The sky was blue again the next day and I enjoyed every minute of it. I didn’t even need to listen to my audio book to pass the time.

隔天也是大藍天,走起來超舒服,我甚至根本不用聽有聲書來打發時間。

I was able to do 30 miles the next day pretty easily, as the terrain is really flat. Mt. Thielsen, which I tried to hike up yesterday, is now far in the distance. It’s the tiny sharp peak on the horizon at the far right in this picture.

那天走48了公里也不覺得難,沒什麼大上坡或下坡。我昨天試著登頂的Thielsen山已離我很遠了,是照片中在右方地平線上的山頭,很難想像一天就可以離它這麼遠。
From far away, I could already see Summit Lake below. I ended up stopping here for a swim and a lunch break. These Oregon lakes are really nice, as they’re really clear, but also much warmer than the lakes in the high Sierras.

有一個湖叫Summit Lake,從前面很遠的地方就看得到,中午終於走到湖邊的時候決定在那裡休息、吃午餐、游泳。奧勒岡的湖我很喜歡,水清澈見底但比內華達山脈的湖溫暖很多!


After passing the next hundred mile marker, I arrived at Shelter Cove Resort on Odell Lake, made famous by the Apple II computer game. As you can imagine, much food was had and enjoyed here, sitting on the deck looking out at the lake. They have a whole tent set up for hikers here, with tables and chairs, hiker boxes, trash cans, and power outlets.

經過下一個100公里的里程碑後我走到Shelter Cove觀光區,在以AppleII的一個遊戲遊戲聞名的Odell湖旁邊。我在露台上邊吃邊看湖邊的風景,只要有餐廳當然要大吃!他們還搭了一頂大帳篷給登山客白天有一個休息的空間,帳篷下有桌子、椅子、hiker box、垃圾桶、插座,太方便了!


I spent the night here and had a big breakfast in the morning. The next big stop on the trail is Big Lake Youth Camp, and I wanted to get to a campsite exactly 62 miles (100 km) away from Big Lake Youth Camp tonight. Here’s why: I planned on doing the 24-hour challenge. Many hikers take advantage of the flat terrain in Oregon and the endurance built up over months of hiking to challenge themselves and see how far they can walk in 24 hours. I was planning to do this tomorrow and am expecting I might be able to do 62 miles. If I got to a spot 62 miles away tonight, then after doing the 24-hour challenge tomorrow I might be able to finish right at Big Lake Youth Camp. Unfortunately, I left Shelter Cove too late this morning and the weather in the evening turned really bad.

我在這裡過夜,隔天早上還捨不得離開,在這裡吃早午餐。下一個重要的停留地點是大湖青年夏令營,今天打算走到離夏令營100公里遠的地方,這是因為我準備玩PCT的24小時挑戰。很多走PCT的人會趁奧勒岡州比較平的路段以及三個月練出來的肌肉和耐力來挑戰自己,看看24小時內持續走路可以走多遠。我打算明天來挑戰,而我預計最多或許可以走100公里,所以今天晚上只要走到離大湖下令營100公里遠的地方,明天走完24小時或許剛好可以走到下令營並休息。不過早上在Shelter Cove停留太久了,中午過後才出發,加上下午的天氣越來越差,害我今天沒有走到這個100公里遠的地點,提早停下來紮營。
After almost 4 months of dry hiking, it looked like we were finally going to get a good rain. I thought it better to stop early and set up camp before the rain got really heavy and the sky got dark. I had my dinner sitting under my umbrella and crawled into bed. It rained all night long.

這四個月以來幾乎沒有淋到雨,今天天氣終於變了。天快黑了,我也怕雨變大所以趁著機會先搭好帳蓬躲雨。我在雨傘下吃晚餐後爬到帳蓬內睡。半夜雨一直下。

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