D4-D5 Finishing California Section A 完成加州A段

Day 4 第四天:

As the sun rose today, the coyotes nearby started howling to mark the start of the day. I packed up (once again the last one out of camp) and started walking. Today's theme was... HOT. After a few hours, I came to a sign saying someone had water nearby under a white canopy. I walked over to check it out and discovered a local guy named Niko doing some trail magic. He told us he often comes out on the weekends to camp here and now welcomes hikers to his place to get out of the sun for a while and having something to eat and drink.

今天日出時我聽到郊狼用叫聲迎接新的一天。今天最晚離開營地的又是我，裝備收好後就繼續往加拿大走。可以用簡單的一個字來形容今天的感覺：熱。還沒中午就很熱，早上剛好看到一個路標，上面寫著附近白色帳篷有水喝，所以我就去找了，其實我那天不缺水但我心想有帳篷就一定可以躲太陽所以還是很值得去看看吧。很快就找到帳篷，裡面是當地的Niko在提供trail magic。他說他週末的時侯本來就會來這個地方露營，後來發現這個季節有那麼多登山客經過才慢慢開始帶水跟吃的，還有一些急救用品和修補零件，歡迎登山客來帳篷內躲熱補充一下熱量和水份。

This guy had all kinds of stuff set out: hummus with veggies, chips, chocolate bars, Gatorade, lemon juice, water, blueberries, etc. As with most trail angels who help hikers on a regular basis, there was a donation bin so he could keep providing these services. I gladly put in my donation and sat down for a visit, a snack, and a drink. Others were coming and going all day here, I'm sure. I had an umbrella, so I was a bit more sheltered than others, but it was still HOT no matter what, and any bit of shade was quickly occupied by hikers.

在帳篷內擺出好多東西：蔬菜配醬汁、洋芋片、巧克力、運動飲料、礦泉水、可加到水裡來調味的檸檬汁、香蕉、藍莓等等。定時提供trail magic的人大部分會有一個小費箱，小費可以拿來買下一次的trail magic。我立刻投進鈔票並坐下來聊聊天、吃吃點心，解解渴。今天這麼熱，Niko肯定整天一直都有來客。我今天撐傘所以不像別人整天直曬太陽，但就算有傘還是很熱，只要有面積大的遮陽處很快就被登山客佔用了。

Finally, after 7 hours of desert walking, I arrived at the promised land: the underpass at Scissors Crossing, where there was a huge water cache and excellent shade. This place had been slowly collecting hikers all day.

在太陽下走了七小時後才終於走到大家都渴望到達的地方：Scissors Crossing的公路橋下。附近的住戶在橋下藏了大量的開水給我們喝，橋下還可以完全避開陽光。從早上開始一直有人陸陸續續到這裡休息，但還沒有人願意離開，所以等溫度下降的登山客就越來越多。

No one who got here wanted to leave because it was still 93 degrees even in the shade under the bridge. I had drunk 7 liters of water again and still felt dehydrated. I couldn't believe how much salt was on my face from my sweat:

抵達橋下的人不願意離開，因為橋下已經34度，外面當然更熱。我已經喝了七公升的水但身體感覺還缺水。我臉上都是汗水蒸發後留下來的鹽，手指摸一下前額就是這個樣子：

There was a hiker box here as well, and I discovered some chicken bouillon cubes that someone had left behind. I quickly cooked up 400 mL of salty chicken soup and drank it all down myself. Finally, with that much salt intake, I felt myself returning to normal. Then there was nothing to do but wait. It was sandy underneath the bridge, so everyone laid out their mats or groundsheets and lay down for a rest. I put down the sheet of Tyvek I'm carrying as a groundsheet: lightweight, waterproof and very durable.

橋下也有hiker box，在裡面沒什麼好用或好吃的東西，但在最底下我看到幾塊雞湯塊。我想到身上的鹽，終於了解我頭痛可能不是因為缺水而是因為缺鹽，因為雞湯塊的含鹽量很高，所以就立刻拿出來煮湯。我沒有加任何食材就把高湯全部喝下去，沒想到這麼簡單的湯可以讓我感到這麼滿足，身體也突然舒服多了。我要記得下次到超市再買一盒雞湯塊。橋下都是很舒服的沙子所以大家把睡墊或帳篷地墊直接鋪在地上，躺上去休息等外面的溫度下降。我自己帶的地點是泰維克，一種用來包覆尚未蓋完的木造房子的紙，具有輕量、防水，耐磨的特性。

People kept rolling in all afternoon, looking more and more exhausted. Everyone agreed that it was time to start thinking about adjusting our hiking routines to avoid being out in the middle of the day.

越晚走到橋下的人因為待在太陽底下也比較久，所以看起來越疲勞。我們都達成共識，以後要調整作息，要盡量避開中午以後太陽的直射。

Finally after about 5:00 p.m. some people started rolling out to do a few more miles. I managed to hike right until dark and do about 8 more miles before setting up camp for the night. Hiking near sunset was actually very comfortable and, in the golden hour, great for photos.

下午五點後才慢慢有人離開再多走幾公里。我自己再走13公里直到天黑的時侯才停下來搭帳篷。走在傍晚的時侯其實很舒服，此刻陽光最美，風景怎麼拍都好看。

Day 5 第五天:

Originally, I didn't want to night hike if possible. It's slower, harder to see the trail, and there isn't much of a view. But after the previous day's sweltering heat, I said to hell with not night hiking. I got up early and was on the trail by 4:10 a.m. There was actually enough light from the moon that I didn't need my headlamp! You could still see across the valley and it was so much more comfortable hiking without sweating.

我本來不想在天黑的時候行走：前進的速度比白天緩慢，步道很難看到，風景也看不太到。但經過昨天在炎熱太陽下的考驗我心想算了還是天黑走好了，於是今天凌晨4:10就出發。月光皎潔，我甚至不需要開頭燈就看得到路。無論上坡或快走都沒流半滴汗，跟昨天相比差太多了，而且出乎意料整個山谷跟對面的山還看得很清楚。

I came across another snake today on the trail. It rattled at me from the bushes beside the trail as I passed by. This time I was able to get a picture of it:

今天遇到了旅途中的第三條響尾蛇，走過的時候牠在旁邊的灌木叢中發出響聲我才知道有蛇，好象只是警告我而已沒有要攻擊。今天終於成功拍到響尾蛇的照片：

I was mostly leapfrogging on trail with a few familiar faces today. Rich (Alpenglow) and I passed the 100 Mile marker together today!

今天我超越的人和超越我的人都是熟悉的人。加拿大人Alpenglow跟我同時過了100英里的路標：

After that, we could feel the day heating up and decided to stop soon at the next water source. This place turned out to be an oasis of shade deep in a gulley, with running spring water and logs set up as benches. It was an incredibly welcome sight just as the day was getting to its hottest point:

過了100英里後感覺太陽變熱了，該找地方休息了，於是決定在下一個水源停下來休息。到達時我們發現這個地方剛好在溪谷底下，附近都是遮陽的高樹，水源是活水，還有木頭可以當椅子，真的是很理想的休息處：

On top of that, some weekend campers walked up from the road and said they were leaving a bag of ice-cold drinks, some fruit and some snacks for the PCT hikers here. More trail magic!!

我們到的時侯剛好有人走過來，他們前一天在附近露營，剩下很多冰飲、點心、水果，他們說這些全部都要留給走PCT的人。又是一次trail magic了！

More hikers rolled up and we all indulged in this wonderful spot and the shade it provided.

後來有更多人走下來，都選擇在這裡休息，享受樹蔭和trail magic。

Some people were considering just staying there for the night. I, however, knew that 8 miles ahead was the town of Warner Springs and the promise of a restaurant meal and hiker service center, so I decided to push on. The landscape went from vast, desolate desert...

有的人在考慮乾脆在那裡過夜，但我知道再往前走13公里就有一個小鎮Warner Springs，那裡不僅有登山客服務中心，附近還有餐廳，所以自己一個人繼續往前。前面的景色一開始是遼闊荒涼的沙漠...

...to a shady tree walk beside a creek:

後來沿著溪流在樹蔭下行走：

One point of interest along the way was Eagle Rock. It is really a stunning likeness:

在路上經過了一個叫做老鷹巨石的景觀，還真像：

Motivated by the promise of a pizza or hamburger, I somehow walked the 8 miles in just 2 hours and 15 minutes, and I was rewarded handsomely for my efforts:

一直想著餐廳裡的漢堡與披薩，我只花了兩小時十五分鐘走完最後13公里，到達後去買已期待兩天的獎品給自己：