D11-D16 已完成10% finished

Days 11-16 第十一至第十六天:

This morning I had another late start as I went for breakfast at a local shop with Mantas. I thought it was worth it to pack in some more calories and, besides, it was a foggy day in town so there was no need to get in a bunch of miles before the sun got really hot.

今天又比較晚出發，我先跟Mantas到一間早餐店補熱量，今天也起霧所以不用趁早上太陽還沒有很大的時侯先走，再晚還是涼涼的。

My goal with this trip is to walk a continuous footpath from Mexico to Canada. Many people opted to get a ride halfway up the mountain to a trailhead a few miles beyond where the PCT fire closure finishes, but this would be cheating for my goal, so I went a different way. I decided to hitchhike back to a spot along the road I had walked in on yesterday, then take the trail uphill from there on foot. In less than a minute, the first truck that passed stopped to give me a ride. A local guy named Jeremy took me all the way up to the trailhead I had walked by yesterday.

我走PCT的一個目標是從墨西哥到加拿大用雙腳走出一條線，中途不能漏一段也不能坐車前進，只能坐車到主線外的地方。從這個小鎮很多人決定坐車到半山腰的地方後在封閉路段後幾公里再接步道，不過我自己這樣做就會漏一段，所以我搭便車到昨天走進來經過的一個岔路，然後從那邊開始登山，在PCT封閉路段的終點附近接上步道。大拇指一伸出來就有車停，當地的Jeremy載我到岔路。

Pretty soon, I had walked out of the cloud layer and had a nice blue sky above and a sea of clouds below.

本來天氣很涼，可是很快就走出雲層，上面是大藍天下面是雲海。

There were quite a few day hikers out today doing this trail, as it goes to a prominent peak, Tahquitz Peak, that has an old fire watch tower on it. Even with my heavy pack, I still passed every single day hiker I saw going up hill. I guess 11 days in, my body is really getting used to the extra weight. Tahquitz Peak was a great spot to rest:

今天看到蠻多人出來走我走的路線，他們的目的地是接PCT之前的一個山頂，上面有一個老舊監視森林火災的瞭望塔。即使我揹得很重我還是超越了我遇到的每一位，這兩個禮拜一直背著背包走身體好像習慣了。山頂是一個很棒的休息處：

After the peak I joined the PCT again for a time, then left it again to head toward San Jacinto Peak. Up high on the mountain it was all coniferous forest:

過了這個山頂後我接到PCT，不久後又離開了PCT走San Jacinto山登頂路線。海拔這麼高跟臺灣一樣是針葉樹林：

San Jacinto Peak is about the same height as many of the 100 Peaks of Taiwan, but I have to say the view from this peak is possibly the best I've ever seen. There were distant ranges visible, a sea of clouds, and the desert cities below with the nearby wind energy farms.

San Jacinto 的高度跟臺灣的很多百岳差不多高，但我覺得這裡的景色更好看一點，遠方的山脈、雲海、沙漠中的城市和風力發電廠都同時看得到。

After an hour on the peak, I headed partway down the mountain. Instead of cooking at camp tonight, I decided to just stop at a nice viewpoint and cook my supper while watching the sunset.

在山頂待了一小時後才開始下山。今天的作息跟平常不一樣，我想看夕陽所以在展望好的地方坐，邊煮晚餐邊看夕陽，吃完才繼續往營地走：

The next morning, the cloud layer on the LA side was still there, trying to push into the desert but failing.

隔天早上看到下面的雲海還在，可是雲層沒有辦法前進，到了沙漠的邊界就消失了：

There was a warning about a beehive on the trail today. When I got close, even though it was a really hot day, I decided to cover up as much as possible. I put on my down jacket to cover up the red colour of my shirt, put on my gloves, and even wore my insect headnet. A couple of bees flew in front of my face but then quickly left me alone. It turned out to be a case of getting really really hot for nothing!

今天的水源報告有提到某個地方會有蜂窩*，所以當我接近的時侯，雖然天氣很熱我還是盡量多穿衣服蓋過皮膚。我穿羽絨外來蓋過可能會刺激蜜蜂的紅色上衣，手套戴上了，連*也拿出來用。經過蜂窩的時侯只有兩隻蜜蜂非過來看我很快就離開了，看來是我把自己搞得很熱而已，根本不用擔心。

At the foot of the mountain, there was finally some water, at a fountain that taps a county water pipeline just for PCT hikers.

到山下才終於有水，這個水源比較特別，旁邊有一條供山下的城鎮自來水的輸水管，我們的水是從那裡面抽出來的。

Some people opted to stay there for the night, but I opted to head down to Interstate 10 in the valley, where, if I was lucky, I would be able to hitch a ride to Taco Bell 5 miles away.

有的人決定在那裡過夜不過我知道再下去幾公里就會到高速公路，運氣好的話可以搭便車到8公里遠的墨西哥速食餐廳。

Before I even got to the highway, I came across trail angel Vera. She had been there for a few hours over the weekend handing out ice cold beer and other drinks, cookies, snacks and fruit. I got some Oreos from her and some delicious watermelon. There's nothing like fresh fruit after a long hot day of hiking!

還沒到高速公路前就遇到一位叫Vera的trail angel，她已經在那裡好幾個小時等登山客經過，她帶了冰啤酒、飲料、餅乾、水果等等，要吃什麼或喝什麼就拿什麼。我跟她拿了Oreo餅乾跟幾片西瓜，在大太陽下走一整天後可以吃到新鮮的水果就是幸福！

Finally, I arrived at the Interstate Highway and railway underpass, where I would spend the night. There was some water cached there as well as some snacks and medical supplies from local trail angels.

我終於到了高速公路和鐵路的橋，打算在下面過夜。當地的trail angels藏了飲用水、急救用品和食物。

As luck would have it, someone drove up in their truck just as I arrived actually offering a ride to the casino area where the Taco Bell is. Of course I jumped at the chance and in 20 minutes, I was enjoying a tasty Mexican-ish treat.

我今天的運氣很好，才剛到就有一位Ken開車過來問我們有沒有人想要坐車到賭博場那裡的餐廳。我馬上上車，二十分鐘後就在墨西哥速食餐廳大吃。

A taco and burrito wasn't really enough, so I also went to the In-N-Out Burger for more food.

吃得還不飽所以跟Ken一起去隔壁的漢堡店吃多一點。

Ken, who gave me a ride there, even gave me a ride back to the underpass. He is really interested in talking to PCT hikers because he's planning to do the trail himself next year.

Ken還載我回橋那裡，他想要明年走PCT所以今年很積極地找PCT的登山客聊步道的事情。

The following morning I headed into the next mountain range. I passed the wind farm office, a very strange-looking gate not attached to a fence, and then on the other side it was pure wild country: not a road or building in sight again.

隔天早上我進去下一個山脈，經過風力發電場和一個獨立的鐵門後就到了沒有人類痕跡的地方。

This is the Whitewater River valley. A few miles in, there was an old trout farm that has been turned into a conservation area and trailhead. This was an absolutely perfect place to get out of the midday heat for a few hours. There was a ton of shade in the picnic area, and a wading pool with river water running through. So refreshing!

後來走到白水河谷，這裡以前是養魚所，現在已經改為森林保育特區讓當地人有機會接近河谷的特殊環境與附近的登山步道。中午到這裡就是最好的休息時間與地點，有樹陰多的野餐區還有活水池可以泡腳，好涼快。

After that, it was up and over another ridge into the next watershed, Mission Creek. The view from up top between these two valleys was great!

下午往隔壁的流域出發，走到分水嶺的時侯展望很棒！

There was a great campsite right beside the river that a lot of people stopped at this night.

走到下面的溪流時看到很舒服的營地，很多人決定在這裡紥營。

I tried out a new addition to the camp food menu: instant gravy for the mashed potatoes. Never has so much flavour emerged from one little pouch. 10/10!

今天試了新的馬鈴薯配料，就是肉汁醬粉，泡水後淋在馬鈴薯上即可。沒想到味道會這麼重，淋一點點整鍋馬鈴薯變得好好吃，我給它滿分！

The next day was almost all wilderness again. San Gorgonio Mountain still had snow on it!

隔天又是除了步道無人痕跡的景色。San Gorgonio山上還有積雪。

I call these Dalmatian trees. They were burnt in a fire and subsequently bleached by the sun, giving a very particular appearance:

這種樹我稱為「大麥町狗樹」，被火燒後又在太陽下脫色，外觀變得很特殊：

We spent the night tenting outside an old cabin as the cabin itself is now in pretty rough shape.

今天晚上在一個廢棄的小木屋外紥營，沒有人想進去睡裡面，屋子的狀況不太好。

The following day was the day I planned to get to the next town, Big Bear Lake. After 14 days of walking, a certain amount of boredom had set in. I came up with a game I could play by myself: the jelly bean guessing game.

隔天預計會到下一個城鎮。已經走人14天，白天在走的時侯偶爾會有點小無聊，所以我自己創了一個新遊戲。

It's pretty easy to play: take a jelly bean out of the bag and, without looking at it, bite off half of it. Take a guess as to what colour it is, then look at the other half to see if you're right. Ten jelly beans per round. This is surprisingly hard to do, and I think I only got 3/10 today.

遊戲很簡單，拿出一個雷根糖，再咬掉一半，再猜是什麼顏色的，最後看手上剩下的那一半是不是跟我猜的顏色一樣，一局十個軟糖。其實比我想像中難猜很多，今天的分數才3/10，希望明天可以猜得準一點。

Nearing town, we came across a dumpster full of trail magic, and a couch! This was put there by a local hostel to advertise for themselves and provide us with information about the town. 

快到通往城鎮的公路時在步道旁看到一個大垃圾筒，不過裡面不是垃圾是trail magic，旁邊還有一個沙發。這些設備是城鎮的*放的當作廣告，也提供很多關於城鎮的資訊。

In the Big Bear area, there are a few Joshua trees growing. This unique species looks like a cross between a cactus and a tree.

這一帶有一種植物叫做約書亞樹，分布範圍限於美國西南方，外觀像樹又像仙人掌。

Another important milestone was knocked off on this day: I've finished walking 10% of the PCT. Only 90% left to go...

今天經過了一個重要的里程碑，已經走完PCT的百分之十，現在只剩百分之九十...

A bunch of us arrived in town in the late afternoon. Lots of the businesses in Big Bear Lake have carvings of bears out front in various poses and are often named after bears.

下午我們一群人一起到Big Bear（巨熊）這個城鎮，這裡很多店的名子跟熊有關，在門口也常看到熊的木雕。

Three of us decided to split a hotel room at the Honey Bear Lodge:

我和另外兩個人決定一起住飯店，在蜜熊山莊租了一個房間：

And of course, the most important thing to do in town is... EAT! A local restaurant had a special on Wednesdays only, which happened to be the day we arrived: $1 fish tacos. I ordered eight and one of the other guys couldn't finish his last one so I ended up having nine. YUM!

到城鎮的時侯最重要的任務就是大吃！有一間墨西哥餐廳每星期三提供炸魚捲餅，一個只要一塊美金，而我們到達剛好是星期三所以就去吃了。我點了八個，另外一個人吃不完自己點的所以我幫他把最後一個吃完，總共吃了九個，胃口真的變大了！

I decided to take a full zero in Big Bear so I had the whole day off the next day. In the morning I had a ridiculously large breakfast: the "Polar Bear". Two eggs, half a plate of hashbrowns, bacon, and two giant pancakes. The picture shows you one of the giant pancakes, but there's another one underneath it. Yes, I finished it all!

我決定在這裡過一個完整的zero，隔天沒有回步道。早上我吃了一個超級大的早餐：兩顆蛋、薯塊、培根、還有兩片比盤子還大的煎餅。照片裡看得到一片，在下面還藏了第二片。我全部吃完了！

Check out the size of the knife and fork for comparison:

刀叉擺在上面就知道煎餅有多大：

I got my next few days of food at the grocery store:

我去買了下一段山路要吃的東西：

The hostel I stayed at the second night had laundry machines and loaner clothes for us to wear while doing laundry. Ironically, the loaner clothes I found are actually nicer than most of my actual clothes. Levi's size 29 and they fit perfectly!

第二晚住的背包客棧有洗衣機，還有舊衣服可以借來在洗衣的時侯穿。我發現舊衣服比我平常穿的衣服還好看。

I got a nice little surprise when I stepped on the scale at the hostel, too. My body weight hasn't really changed and I'm already 16 days in. This is perhaps my biggest accomplishment so far! Normally I lose about 2 kg on a weeklong hiking trip. It looks like my calorie loading is working.

今天踩上體重計的時侯受到小驚喜，已經第十六天我的體重卻沒什麼變，這可能是我到目前為止最大的成就。平常在台灣爬山一個禮拜就會瘦兩公斤，這兩個禮拜大吃高熱量食物顯然有效。

Tomorrow, it's time to head back out onto the trail.

明天又要回步道繼續走。